By Sydney Sevdalis
For diners in Grant Park, Ormewood Park, and East Atlanta Village, a short drive has quietly become part of the weekly rhythm. People are seeking out meals that feel thoughtful but not overly composed. Places like this draw people in for one simple reason: fresh, local food made with care, exactly the kind of eating that defines spring here.
Spend a few minutes talking to Chef Jarrett Stieber about this dish and it becomes clear it’s less about precision and more about rhythm. “It’s not a precious plate,” he says. “Everything on it is meant to be played with.” Built around what’s available and in season, the dish begins with the squash. The smoked squash anchors the plate, making up about half of what lands on it. From there, it opens up. A spoonful or two of toum, a swipe of ajika, a scattering of sweet and sour peppers. Nothing is rigid. The balance is intuitive. “You can lean into whatever component you like,” Stieber says. “They’e all strong on their own, so you’re not going to mess it up.”
That flexibility carries through the entire preparation. The squash is typically served at room temperature, though Stieber notes it can just as easily be served cold in the summer or warmed in colder months. Even the skin stays on, so long as the squash is small and tender. “It’s edible, and it adds to the texture,” Sous Chef Mykel Burkhardt says. “If you’re working with something bigger, like a tougher gourd, then you’d peel it. But with these, we keep it.” In the kitchen, very little goes to waste. The seeds from the squash are toasted and ground directly into the ajika, no extra processing required. “It all goes in,” he says. “That’s the point.”
The condiments, each with their own personality, are meant to be made ahead and used generously. The táng cù peppers benefit from a few hours of rest, though overnight is ideal. The toum, rich with garlic and lemon, doesn’t require much fuss either. “I don’t even worry about removing the germ from the garlic,” Stieber says. “Sometimes we don’t even peel it if it’s good garlic.”
The recipe yields enough components for roughly six to eight servings, depending on the size of the squash, but the intention isn’t to portion it too carefully. It’s to build a plate that feels complete in the moment. What emerges is a dish that reflects how the Little Bear kitchen actually works. Seasonal, collaborative, and open-ended. Something that evolves as it’s made, and again as it’s served.
Smoked Boston Marrow Squash
Ingredients
1 small Boston Marrow squash (about 1.5 lb)
Kosher salt (1 part)
Granulated sugar (½ part)
Paprika (5 g)
Crushed red chili (5 g)
White peppercorn (3 g)
Fenugreek (3 g)
Preparation
Trim the ends of the squash. Cut crosswise to separate the bulb and neck, then halve each piece lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and reserve them.
Toast seeds at 350°F for 10-20 minutes until golden and crisp.
Mix salt, sugar, paprika, red chili, ground white peppercorn, and fenugreek to form a cure.
Season the squash generously and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, cook the squash at 250°F in a smoker (or oven) for about 1 hour, until just tender but not soft.
Cool to room temperature and refrigerate until ready to use.
Squash Seed Ajika
Ingredients
Toasted squash seeds
Jimmy Nardello peppers or red bell peppers (200 g)
Red chili such as Fresno or cayenne (100 g)
1 head garlic
Pecans (100 g)
Coriander (3 g)
White peppercorn (3 g)
Fenugreek (3 g)
Dried marigold (1 g, optional)
Olive oil (100 g)
Distilled vinegar (50 g)
Kosher salt and sugar to taste
Preparation
Grind coriander, peppercorn, fenugreek, and marigold.
Pulse pecans in a food processor to a coarse meal and set aside.
Roughly chop peppers and garlic.
Process with salt into a coarse paste.
Add squash seeds, pecans, spices, and sugar.
While blending, drizzle in vinegar and olive oil.
Taste and adjust seasoning. Store refrigerated.
Toum (Garlic Sauce)
Ingredients
Garlic cloves (150 g)
Canola oil (600-700 g)
Lemon juice (200 g)
Kosher salt and sugar to taste
Preparation
Blend garlic with salt, a small amount of lemon juice, and sugar until smooth.
With the blender running, alternate adding lemon juice and oil in slow streams to form a thick, emulsified sauce.
Adjust seasoning and store refrigerated.
Táng Cù Peppers (Sweet and Sour Peppers)
Ingredients
Sweet peppers (250 g)
Garlic (30 g)
Distilled vinegar (150 g)
Water (75 g)
Sugar (150 g)
Sesame oil (15 g)
Kosher salt to taste
Preparation
Julienne peppers and slice garlic. Toss with salt and sesame oil.
Heat vinegar, sugar, water, and salt until dissolved.
Pour over peppers and garlic.
Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.
Crispy Okra
Ingredients
Okra (200 g)
Oil for frying
Kosher salt
Preparation
Heat oil to 400°F.
Slice okra thinly using a mandolin.
Fry for 30-40 seconds until crisp.
Drain and season immediately.
Store at room temperature in an airtight container.
To Assemble
Ingredients
2 jalapeños, thinly sliced
Mixed sorrel and herbs
Flake salt
Herb vinegar (optional)
Preparation
Cut squash into a mix of slices and chunks.
Arrange on a plate and season with flake salt.
Drizzle with toum and spoon over ajika.
Add jalapeños and crispy okra.
Lightly dress with herb vinegar if using. Finish with a generous handful of sorrel and herbs.
Serve immediately.
The Story Behind the Dish
This dish grew out of an evolving collaboration in the Little Bear kitchen. One of our sous chefs, Mykel, began focusing more on vegetable-forward, gluten-free cooking, first through his supper club called Light Metal, and then in daily kitchen work. That shift brought a different perspective to how we build dishes.
What started as a beet carpaccio gradually transformed into smoked squash. Along the way, elements were added, adjusted, and refined through both of our approaches. His technique-driven mindset paired with a desire to layer heat, herbs, and acidity resulted in a dish that balances smoke, richness, brightness, and texture.
It’s a reflection of how we like to cook. Seasonal, collaborative, and built from the ground up.
Follow @littlebearatl and| @lightmetalatl for more food news. Tell me your favorite dishes at @sydney.sends.it.
